At Dokpa Expeditions, safety and clarity are our top priorities, especially when it comes to planning and guiding high-altitude climbs. One of the key tools we use to communicate the difficulty of our peaks is the French Alpine System (FAS), a widely recognized grading method in the mountaineering world.
The French Alpine System categorizes climbs based on their technical difficulty, exposure, and required skills. Grades range from F (Facile / Easy) to ED (Extrêmement Difficile / Extremely Difficult). Intermediate grades like PD (Peu Difficile / Slightly Difficult), AD (Assez Difficile / Fairly Difficult), and D (Difficile / Difficult) help climbers understand the increasing complexity of terrain, snow, ice, and rock sections.
Here’s how it works:
- F (Easy): Gentle slopes and minimal technical skills required. Ideal for beginners.
- PD (Slightly Difficult): Some steeper slopes, basic ice or snow climbing skills needed.
- AD (Fairly Difficult): Mixed terrain with moderate technical challenges; requires prior experience.
- D/TD/ED (Difficult to Extremely Difficult): Steep glaciers, ice walls, and technical ridges; only experienced climbers should attempt.
Using the FAS system, our climbers know exactly what to expect from each expedition. Whether it’s Nun, Kang Yatse II, Ut Kangri, or Dzo Jongo, understanding the grade helps with preparation, safety, and maximizing the adventure.
Here’s a simple, easy-to-read chart explaining the French Alpine System (FAS) for Dokpa Expeditions’ peak climbing blog:
| FAS Grade | Full Form (French) | Difficulty Level | Description / Terrain |
|---|---|---|---|
| F | Facile | Easy | Gentle slopes, minimal technical skills required. Suitable for beginners. |
| PD | Peu Difficile | Slightly Difficult | Some steeper slopes, basic snow/ice climbing needed. |
| AD | Assez Difficile | Fairly Difficult | Mixed terrain with moderate technical challenges; prior climbing experience helpful. |
| D | Difficile | Difficult | Steep glaciers, snow, and rock sections; requires strong mountaineering skills. |
| TD | Très Difficile | Very Difficult | Long, steep routes with technical climbing; only for experienced climbers. |
| ED | Extrêmement Difficile | Extremely Difficult | Challenging glaciers, ice walls, and ridges; suitable for expert high-altitude climbers. |
Quick Notes for Climbers:
- Grade indicates technical difficulty and exposure, not altitude alone.
- FAS is widely used in Europe and adapted by Dokpa Expeditions for Himalayan peaks.
- Knowing the grade helps in preparing gear, training, and safety measures before attempting the climb.
At Dokpa Expeditions, we combine this system with experienced guides, proper acclimatization, and safety protocols to ensure every peak climb is both challenging and rewarding.